Dances With Beans

Growing Coffee in Portland

Coffee Cherries growing in Portland

So, in our Vaughn Street store in Portland, we have some coffee trees that were given to our GM Brian as a gift recently. They look to be at least four to five years old, which is amazing given that, well, they live in Portland, Oregon. That's way outside the so-called Coffee Belt (about 1000 miles on either side of the equator). What's really amazing...or that one if the trees is fruiting. Not a lot, mind you, but still three little cherries have somehow developed on one of the older tree's branches.

Honduran National Barista Team

 Honduran National Barista Team member competing

As a means of introducing the Honduran staff to the International Jurors, an impromptu barista jam was organized at IHCAFE with their staff, challenging any of the International Jurors who happened to be barista (baristi just sounds so affected, doesn’t it?) and/or barista trainers. Being the good sports that we are, we naively accepted the challenge and got several of our team to compete on our behalf. The Specialty Coffee Community, globally, is pretty small. In origin countries, that community is even smaller, so someone who knew someone who had a cousin who is on the Honduran National Barista Team got in touch with said cousin . . . Get where I am going? The cousin got the members of the Honduran National Coffee Team interested, and they all showed up at IHCAFE to compete. Initially we were thinking, Hey, let’s take it easy on them, since they may not have any experience, etc. etc. You can pretty much guess what happened.  

The Honduran National Team members are:

Eleazar Caceres, Liquidambar

Valeria Carranza, Cafe Tinto

Pedro Lezama, Independent

Damaris Carranxa, Cafe Passion

Santiago Vasquez, Cafetano

Having watched the Hondurans prepare their warm-up drinks [see accompanying image], I put money on Team Honduras and then drank one of those colorful drinks . . . and then gave away the other before the Internationals could see the quality the Hondurans could produce. Yours truly was happy to take in the slaughter from the sidelines. The announcement came at the finish. Then a resounding cheer filled the room. The Hondurans trampled the International Jurors.  Humble Pie is the name of our new signature drink. Who says life is fair?

-Jeff Chean

The Ritual of Formal Cupping

Groundwork Coffee's, Jeff Chean, writes from in country at Honduras' Cup of Excellence competition.

While there are many differences in cultural preferences, age, and language among the jurors, what we have in common is just as easy to point out: One of our commonalities is the dance of the cupping ritual. As the International Cuppers, we are treated like visiting nobility. An entire cadre of "Porters" stands by, ready to dose, grind, set the cups, pour the water, fill and refill the spoon-rinse water, etc. Our job is just to cup, skim the coffee crust (that forms after water is poured on the grounds), record and score our sensory impressions, and keep the %@&* out of the Porters' way — they are very serious about what and how they do what they do.

The first time I experienced this sort of being "taken care of," I was uncomfortable. I think Americans, in general, approach things in an egalitarian way. Maybe I take it too seriously, because I’m the guy who bags his own groceries at Trader Joe's. Hey, the cashier is already busy, right? In any event, it took me a while to realize that, even though the Trader Joe's staff is grateful, the cupping staff feels differently. When a cupper injects themselves into a part of the dance where their partner needs to lead, it’s taken as a comment on the perception of their competency. Or, to be more specific, on their lack of competency.

The biggest show of respect one can give to the team is to let them do their part and acknowledge a job well done, when it is, and to gently correct (or ask the table leader to do so) when it is not. The Porters are an indispensable part of the competition process.

-Jeff Chean

From Origin — Cup of Excellence: Honduras

The International Jury arrives at the new IHCAFE (Instituto Hondureno del Cafe) building for a day of calibration. What does that mean? The jury consists of 20 cuppers from around the world who, somehow, need to agree on which coffees of the finalists are the best.

Put yourself into a room with 20 friends and then try to decide which restaurant you all should go to. Got that image in your mind? Good, because that's easy compared to getting 20 people from different cultures, whom, for the most part, have never met and share only English (as a second, third, or fourth language) as a means to communicate. What we all share is a love for coffee, coffee discovery, and a sincere belief that hard work well done by a coffee grower should be rewarded with a premium price.

Defying all odds, the juries somehow come together over the course of the week. Today is the first part of that process to align our tasting and scoring.

-Jeff Chean

Organic Brazil Fazenda Camocim, Part Deux

It seems like just yesterday that I wrote about running to East Bay Logistics to get arrival samples of our specially prepared and blended Organic Camocim Brazil. As a single origin, it shines; as an important component of our Organic Espresso and Black Magic blends, it helped to make those coffees sing. 

Funny thing about planning: those plans don’t always work out the way you expect them to. When we bought the container of Camocim, we thought it would last nine months or so. Yeah . . . didn’t work out that way. Our customers really responded, and we were looking at running out in about half that time. 

Just bagged coffee in the Camocim solar drying patio

(Just bagged coffee in the Camocim solar drying patio)

A quick phone call to Henrique and his team in Brazil, some frantic back-and-forth emails, and we came to an agreement to have him ship us three containers of our special varietal blend over the course of a year.

Coffee sacks are usually a dun- or tan-colored jute bag. Even when they aren’t jute, as in the case with the Jutex Sacaria Imperial (made out of a recyclable plastic in order to prevent the taste of the jute from transferring to the coffee), tan is the color of choice. Henrique, a former Porsche racecar driver, has a flair for the dramatic. Somehow, he got hold of a cardinal-red bag and packed our coffee in those. Crazy.

Sacaria Imperial bags, before, in burlap.Sacaria Imperial bags after, in orange.

(Sacaria Imperial bags, before and after)

So, the good news is that another container of great Direct Trade, organic, Demeter Certified, Bio-Dynamic certified Brazilian coffee has left a port in Brazil and found a home in your latte . . . or cappuccino . . . or . . .